After a day of motoring with a mix of no wind or good sailing wind resting upon the nose 0300, hazy sky of cloud and moisture was backlit by the lights of lights over Naples and the island anchorage itself.
Three of us out on deck helping to guide past yachts and moorings, in Gratis headed. !4 metres of water, just metres from the cliff face, anchor embedded in, we stood in awe at the sight that beheld us. Silhouetted against the backlit skies of night lights, the five hundred metre mountain loomed dark and forbidding.
According to legend, this is the bay in which Ulysses is supposed to have been seduced by the Sirens.
St Helena was amazing, but this was awesome. Words can’t describe it!
Daylight at last, the true image emerged. The rounded shape formation of the land had one imagining a pyroclastic eruption as a volcano blew its northern face, thereby creating the cliff faces and valley within: where the town resides. The boulders to our right must have once been a part of the crater top lip.
The anchorage itself reminded us of St Helena with its rocking and rolling: not quite so bad, but enough. A good holding, the anchor embedded rapidly and Gratis didn’t move all night.
Toursim mecca! Brightly vibrantly coloured tourist residences lay upon the shoreline, their chairs of matching colours rested upon the rocky beaches.
Come 0900 tourists created Charter boat’s heaven, as they were either chivvied around the island’s circumference or anchored for a swim.
To those cruisers visiting, be prepared for the charter boats who crested a nice wake as they passed by only a metre or two from our girl.
A shock for the average cruiser was the cost of the Capri’s one true marina, Marina Grande in the north. Its cheapest price is 185 euro per day, the dearest 225 euro per day – and that’s at the moment because it is off season.
Relaxed morning and luncheon over, into the dinghy we clambered as Little G2 rocked and rolled in the swells. Into a grotto Bob motored, the rocks worn smooth by the waves of time and glistening at the base as the clearest of water gently set it awash: wow!!!! Heading westward, our aim to beach Little G2, all free beach line taken by the restaurants and tourism boats awaiting to pick up their next load of passengers, not a spot was free. Still desiring an exploration of the region, the decision to moor at the base of a restaurant was made. Ashore at last, up the steps we climbed, and under cover sat admiring the view. For each, a piece of cake – even for myself – and a drink or two. Eighty euro please.
Still time for a wander, out the gates we meandered. Stairs, more stairs: as though to the heavens, up, up and up they led. Vibrant greens, narrow road, open air taxis and short yellow gold buses. This was Capri! Proud geese guarding, low cloud wafting, rock falls eminent. This was Capri!
Afternoon waning, soft light illuminating, tourists and boats departing: peace at last, leaving for us the mournful cries of the gulls and gentle swish swash of the waters as the gloaming encroached.